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The John Lobb factory is among the most renowned manufacturers in the British shoemaking hub of Northampton, a city that became famous as a core of the shoe industry in the 17th century. Although Hermes Group has owned the company since 1976, the factory remains committed to the methods developed in the 1800s.

Modern machines are present but secondary. For instance, the laser is not applied directly to the hides. Instead, plastic templates are produced, which are handed to clickers. Their title comes from the distinctive “click” of the knife blade hitting the cutting table. With traditional knives, they carve the leather by hand.

Production is intentionally small, with only no more than five hundred pairs made each week. This approach feels like near-bespoke manufacturing. Employees often handle many designs in a single day, instead of repeating one routine step like in mass-production plants. Every shoe is built with Goodyear welted technology, allowing a leaky sole to be removed without damaging the upper.

As with Hermes, John Lobb chooses only the finest leather, particularly from premium French calfskin. Only about sixty percent is suitable for cutting, while the remainder becomes supporting details.

The collection combines timeless classics with modern updates. The City II Oxfords, for instance, were slightly reshaped. The Sennen double monks gained longer straps and a more robust foundation. The Lopez classic, introduced in 1950, received subtle color and sole innovations. Newer icons include the Porth trainers and the Levah trainers, which are produced yearly in various colors and materials.

Through its dedication to craftsmanship, John Lobb continues to be a defining name in world-class shoemaking.

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